Agra, synonymous with the Taj Mahal, a testament to enduring love, has transcended its historical association to emerge as a city with a distinct identity beyond the Taj’s shadow. 

Tracing its roots back to the Hindu epic Mahabharata, Agra was referred to as ‘Agraban,’ where ‘ban’ denoted “forest” in Sanskrit, portraying its origins as an arid wooded area. Legend attributes the city’s establishment to Raja Badal Singh around 1475 A.D. However, Agra gained prominence when Sikandar Lodi shifted the capital from Delhi in 1506, marking a turning point in its history.

The ascension of the Mughal Empire commenced after Babur’s victory over Ibrahim Lodi in the battle of Panipat in 1526, heralding the first Mughal ruler’s reign over Agra—Humayun, his successor. Agra flourished during the illustrious rule of Akbar, Jehangir, and Shah Jahan between the mid-16th and 17th centuries, marking a golden era in its history. However, the decline of Mughal rule ensued when Shah Jahan’s son, Aurangzeb, shifted to Aurangabad.

By 1803, the British East India Company assumed control, eventually establishing Agra as a Presidency in 1835 under a Governor’s administration. Following the upheaval of the 1857 revolt, British Crown rule was established, propelling Agra’s evolution into an industrial town.

The Humble Shoe Beginnings from Royal Shoes

–       A Bhisti, Hing (Asafoetida), Mashq & the Akbar Army

oh! For the love of food. 

The history of the shoemakers of Agra is indeed an interesting one.  After 1526 – when emperor Babur occupied Agra – the city slowly and steadily became the Mughal capital for generations. Agra was one of the important centers of trade and commerce. It’s no surprise that the Mughals also influenced Agra’s cuisine. Mughlai food originally invented by fusion of existing Persian and Indian cuisines – creamy, richly flavored curries and long heritage of cuisines with an abundance of spices, dried fruits, and roasted nuts. One of the ingredients ‘Hing’ (Asafoetida) sourced from Afghanistan and Iran, came packed in leather containers called Mashq, brought on camel caravans and sold in Hing market. The discarded leather bags, left behind were used sustainably by the enterprising local craftsmen and artisans of Agra for making footwear. A natural and sustainable upcycling strange relationship between spices and shoes.

And a Savior…

In a remarkable turn of events that reshaped the narrative of Agra’s history, a water carrier known as a Bhisti emerged as a pivotal figure, altering the course of the city’s fate forever.

The saga began with a daring act of heroism when this unnamed Bhisti inflated his trusty leather goatskin satchel to save the life of none other than Humayun, the revered second Mughal emperor, from a perilous drowning in the sacred waters of the river. Crafting an improvised float from his Mashq, the Bhisti orchestrated Humayun’s safe passage across the river, a selfless act that would alter the course of both their lives.

Grateful for his miraculous rescue, Humayun, in an unprecedented gesture, bestowed upon the humble water carrier the throne of Agra for a single day. In that fleeting but impactful reign, the Bhisti showcased extraordinary vision and ingenuity. Dividing his Mashq into smaller fragments, the Bhisti transformed them into tokens of wealth by adorning them with gilded inscriptions of his own name and the date of his coronation. These ingeniously crafted pieces served as an unconventional form of currency, circulating and embedding his legacy within the economic fabric of Agra.

However, his ambitions transcended personal gain. The Bhisti, in an act of unprecedented generosity, extended an invitation to leatherworkers far and wide to partake in his newfound fortune. This inclusive act laid the foundation for Agra’s flourishing low-caste community and became the bedrock of the city’s illustrious leather industry.

The Royal Patronage

During Emperor Akbar’s reign, Agra’s leather industry experienced a transformative surge, catalyzed by a groundbreaking decree. Akbar, recognizing the necessity for his soldiers to be equipped with footwear, mandated the provision of shoes for his army, marking a departure from the Mughal tradition of barefoot combat. This directive sparked a flurry of activity, summoning shoemakers from across the empire to produce thousands of pairs annually.

Crafted with meticulous detail, shoes were embellished with opulent elements—velvet, silk cloth, and ornate embroidery, sometimes adorned with threads of gold and silver. These opulent shoes, known as “Salem Shahis,” were reserved for the Royals and Elite, a symbol of prestige and luxury. Simultaneously, footwear tailored for the Mughal Army took shape, while designs for the common populace reflected their social status, creating a diverse array of styles and craftsmanship.

This pivotal moment laid the cornerstone for what would evolve into the renowned “AGRA LEATHER FOOTWEAR” industry.Today, the heartbeat of this legacy thrives within the vibrant hub known as ‘Hing Ki Mandi.’ Surrounding areas such as Sadar Bhatti, Nai Ki Mandi, Tajganj, Bodla, Jagdishpura, Raja Mandi, Shahganj, Nanuhai, Sanjay Place, Loha Mandi, Chakkipat, Mantola, among others, collectively form the expansive canvas of this market—the largest in Asia. These areas stand as a testament to the craft, drawing footwear traders and retailers from all corners of India, shaping Agra into an eminent sanctuary for the footwear industry.

The Transitions (1835-1990’s)

British Era 

After the decline of Mughal Empire, the city came under the influence of Marathas before falling into the hands of the British Raj in 1803. In 1835 when the Presidency of Agra was established by the British, the city became the seat of government. The footwear industry in General and Agra shoe industry underwent a major change. 

Following the 1857 Indian rebellion, English forces in Agra and Delhi spurred a demand for English-style footwear. Local artisans adapted, learning to craft these shoes, causing a shift away from traditional Zari and embroidery work. The new trend in English-style footwear took center stage, leading to a decline in the traditional craftsmanship that once defined Agra’s footwear industry.

First Shoe Factory

In 1892, Agra saw the inception of its first shoe factory, founded by Kashmiri pandit brothers Mohan Krishan Dar and Pyare Krishna Dar, known as “Dar brothers.” This establishment, named “The Stuart Boot and Equipment Factory Limited,” situated in Talganj, owed its existence to military patronage and British supervision. The factory derived its name from Stuart, a British general stationed in Agra, who facilitated securing orders from the military. Operating under Stuart’s guidance, the factory crafted shoes using wooden lasts. However, after Stuart’s retirement and faced with formidable competition from the mechanized production in Kanpur (then Cawnpore), the company encountered challenges. By 1901, amidst these difficulties, the enterprise faltered and eventually failed. Subsequently, the factory underwent a change in ownership and was rebranded as the Dayal Bagh Taj Tannery.

The beginning of Mechanisation & Growth

In 1908, Taj Tannery changed hands when a Bengali entrepreneur named Tahir Tanner acquired it and restructured its operations under the name “Boot Eachoment Factory.” Concurrently, Syed Musa Raza introduced machinery and established the Shahganj shoe factory, specializing in Western-style footwear, which proved to be a highly successful venture.

The outbreak of World War I brought about a significant upswing for the industry. The demand surged, and the disruption in imports due to political unrest amplified production, leading to a pressing need to fulfill requirements from internal sources. This surge in demand culminated in the establishment of the Dayalbagh Footwear Factory Limited in 1917, emerging as the largest manufacturing unit of that era.

The industry’s rapid growth was aided by favorable circumstances, including reduced competition from Kanpur. The Cooper Allen Company of Kanpur had shifted its production to meet military requirements, thereby lessening the competitive pressure. Additionally, imports from Germany and Japan ceased, further bolstering the domestic market and supporting the heightened production demands. 

Indeed, the foundations of Agra’s robust footwear industry were further strengthened by several key contributors:

1. K.V. & Company (Khadam Ali Khan and Faiyaz Ali Khan): Recognizing the need for innovation and quality, they employed skilled artisans and sourced literature, illustrated catalogues, and machines from English manufacturers. Embracing mechanized production techniques, they focused on crafting superior, comfortable shoes.

2. Good Luck & Company (Mestri Hardeva and Sirajudin): This venture blended the art of shoe manufacturing with astute business acumen. Their specialization in crafting Western-style footwear using meticulous hand processes marked them as pioneers in the field.

3. Other Prominent Entities: Various factories like Darbar Shoe Factory, China Footwear Factory, Men’s Footwear Factory, Senior Shoe Factory, Amdon Shoe Factory, Alexandar Shoe Factory, Poland Shoe Factory, Maharaja Shoe Factory, Kohnur Shoe Factory, Araq Shoe Factory, Burma Shoe Factory, and others played significant roles in shaping Agra’s footwear industry landscape.

Each of these establishments contributed uniquely, either by adopting modern manufacturing techniques, specializing in specific footwear styles, or combining skilled craftsmanship with business expertise. Together, they formed the bedrock of Agra’s diverse and thriving footwear industry, solidifying its reputation for quality and innovation. Inspite of the difficulties and challenges, the industry continued to grow. While in 1914 there were only 4 factories, which increased to 20 in 1929 in addition to the increase in home-based business of Jatav Tradesman. 

The fortune of industry changed further as the start of World War II led to increased military requirements which were mainly fulfilled by large manufacturing factories like Bata and Flex and leaving the local civilian demand for Agra Shoe industry. Though the Quality of footwear was still ordinary but dependable, durable, and comparatively cheap thus helping common Indians in bigger cities to shift to English style of footwear for lifestyle. A major factor which gave impetus to Indian footwear industry was that British rule brought with them English designers and enhanced the skillset of the native artisans considerably.

The setting up of Agra Market & Trading System:

In the 1930s, Khadam Ali Khan spearheaded the establishment of the first central shoe market, an enduring monument in Hing ki Mandi that stands as a testament to his foresight. He united shoe factories into an association, urging them to create a hub where they could set up shops and engage with cottage industry manufacturers and distant shoe merchants. This centralized meeting points revolutionized trade, offering a space for wholesale traders, shoemakers, and other merchants to converge. This development propelled Agra into a significant hub for English-style men’s shoes between the World Wars, later exporting its products to regions like Iran, Iraq, and the East Indies after India gained independence.

Initially, shoe production thrived in places like “Sadar Bhatti,” with small retail shops in Jama Masjid and bulk wholesale operations in the market. Every evening, shoes were transported in baskets to the Shoe Market, where dealers engaged in selling them to one another. By 1945, shoe production escalated to around 50,000 pairs per day. The workforce in Agra’s leather industry also burgeoned, rising from 37,000 workers in 1939 to 50,000 by 1943-44.

Post-Independence

In the pre-independence period, the footwear industry was predominantly manned by Muslims. However, the partition of the Indian subcontinent in 1947 brought about significant migration waves, reshaping the industrial landscape permanently. The migrants moving from Pakistan to India were largely Hindu-Punjabis, while those heading to Pakistan were primarily Muslim, many of whom were involved in shoe making and trade. This demographic shift had a profound impact on the industry.

The era’s sentiments and changes are depicted in Bollywood movie “Garam Hawa.” The aftermath of partition led to the closure of several renowned establishments, severely impacting production in the footwear industry. This shift in population and workforce altered the fabric of the industry, marking a poignant change that echoed across various sectors after India’s partition.

In the aftermath of partition, Agra’s regional economy, including the shoe industry, faced a decline as affluent Muslims departed for Pakistan. However, the arrival of migrant Punjabis in North India, including Agra, marked a turning point. They recognized the skilled craftsmanship of Jatavs and Muslim shoemakers and identified untapped potential due to limited market connections and underutilized opportunities for expanding the footwear business. For the Hindu-Punjabis, trading in leather was unrestricted, leading them to venture into Agra’s footwear trading upon migration. Initially, they acted as commissioning agents for shoemakers. Yet, they soon realized that purchasing footwear and selling it beyond Agra’s traditional markets was more profitable.

However, the Government’s Industrial Policy of 1956 restricted the leather industry exclusively to the small-scale sector, driven by social concerns. This policy had significant implications for the industry’s structure and operations, impacting its growth and dynamics within Agra’s economic landscape.

1970’s – Revival of a Potential Industry

The Indian Government, through its five-year plans and committees, orchestrated strategic policies to bolster the Leather and Leather Products industry, ensuring self-sufficiency and future growth:

– The Seetharamiah Committee in 1972 advocated banning raw hide and skin exports, imposing quota restrictions on semi-finished leather exports, and simultaneously increasing finished leather production capacity.

– The Kaul Committee in 1979 supported capital goods acquisition for leather production, reducing import duties on machinery for tanning, finishing, footwear, and leather goods.

– The Pande Committee in 1985 proposed steps to enhance raw material availability, modernize processes, and prioritize footwear as a crucial export item.

Agra’s footwear industry experienced significant production enhancements by embracing a new production mindset and adopting modern technology. This growth was further propelled by the trade agreement between India and the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics (U.S.S.R.) in 1958. The treaty aimed to fortify trade relations and volume by conducting trade through barter. India purchased crude petroleum, non-ferrous metals, machinery, and fertilizers, while exporting tea, clothing, consumer electronics, spices, footwear (including leather uppers), and finished leather to the U.S.S.R. Payments were settled in Indian rupees based on Rupee-Rouble conversion. However, the distorted exchange rates between the US dollar, Indian Rupee, and Rouble posed significant challenges for Indian exporters due to the highly fluctuating currency values. To assist household artisans, small-scale and cottage units with shoe marketing and providing economical and mechanical assistance, institutions like Central Footwear Training Institute (CFTI), Uttar Pradesh Leather Development Corporation (LAMCO), SISI, Bhartiya Charm Udyog Sangh, Bharat Leather Corporation (BLC), KVIC were established. The institutions played an important role through technical support and sales of goods using their network in the country. Agra artisans followed a system of Mentor and Mentees to teach shoe craft whereby those who wished to learn shoe making skills used to go to old craftsman for training, a waning practice today.

 *Note: LAMCO and BLC have been out of business for the past 5 to 7 years due to administrative reasons.

Liberalization of India’s Economy: 1990 to 2015

The early 1990s marked a pivotal phase with the economic liberalization and the Soviet Union’s decline, triggering a significant reshaping of the export trade landscape. Exporters, heavily reliant on the Soviet Union and Eastern European markets, faced a sudden loss of their primary market. They had to strategize, augment their capacities, and adapt to the more competitive Western markets while concurrently generating demand in the local market.

The Economic liberalization of 1992, alongside the Industrial Policy of the same year, aimed at accelerating export growth for leather goods, focusing on removing specific products like leather from small-scale categorization. License requirements were abolished, encouraging faster foreign collaborations and joint ventures for access to technology and raw materials. Efforts were made to modernize the industry through technological packages, educational institutions, and training centers under a comprehensive Leather development program with UNDP assistance.

This deregulation sought to enhance competitiveness by integrating the latest technology and focusing on economies of scale to meet global demand. However, it also led to challenges. Exporters, previously reliant on the secure and stable Soviet market, now faced volatility in international demand. This shift affected small-scale domestic producers adversely, causing raw material shortages, financial constraints, and machinery infrastructure needs, elevating production costs and resulting in market loss to larger players. The repercussions were swift. By 1996, a significant number of production units in Agra had shuttered, reflecting the impact of these changes on trade dynamics.

“The work which was considered to be dirty acquired great economic value”.

Agra’s industry splits into Formal and Informal Markets 

In the mid-2000s, a fresh impact hit the Agra cluster due to trade liberalization, revised rules on leather imports, and increased FDI. This led to an influx of Chinese importers and manufacturers flooding the Indian shoe market with leather-like shoes at significantly lower prices. This influx exacerbated issues for the domestic sector, causing numerous shoemakers to shut down, and many traders exited the business.

However, those who persevered showcased remarkable adaptability. Some reluctantly shifted to manufacturing synthetic shoes (referred to as foam shoes by local artisans), while others turned to crafting leather shoes from discarded materials sourced from Kanpur, Kolkata, and Chennai to meet the domestic market’s affordability demands. This adaptation could be viewed as a response to market challenges, sparking some form of technological change.

To bolster exports, the UP State Industrial Development Corporation (UPSIDC) established the Export Promotion Industrial Park (EPIP) in 2002 across 100 acres in Agra’s Sikandra industrial area. Though it took until 2013 to attract export manufacturers to relocate to these units. AFMEC (Agra Footwear Manufacturers and Exporters Chamber), in conjunction with the Council for Leather Exports (CLE), aided UPSIDC in selecting the EPIP site, ensuring convenience for manufacturers, exporters, and access to skilled labor without environmental concerns.

In a bid to support small artisans and manufacturers, plans for a Leather Park were proposed in 2008, with a 100-crore fund allocation and 283-acre space designated in 2011. This Leather Park included a Shoe Mandi for exhibits, training, upliftment, trading, and sales. However, the park faced delays; the Shoe Mandi shops remain unallocated and non-operational due to legal issues within the Taj Trapezium Zone.

Furthermore, the Uttar Pradesh government selected Agra for a footwear cluster under the One District One Product (ODOP) scheme in 2018. This initiative aimed to elevate Agra’s identity globally, offering financial support for upgrading, restructuring, and adopting new technology to compete on an international level.

The Turbulent years 

Navigating Industry Challenges: The Post-2016 Era

Since 2016, the industry has weathered significant upheavals, beginning with two major economic reforms in India: Demonetization in 2016 and the introduction of Goods and Services Tax (GST) in 2017. These were followed by the detrimental impact of the Covid-19 pandemic in 2020, deeply affecting Agra’s manufacturing and trading sectors. However, there have been positive initiatives such as the support for “Vocal for Local” and the revised definition of MSME in 2020, providing some momentum.

Despite the sector’s gradual recovery post-Covid-19 and Omicron, it faces fresh challenges, notably the increase in GST rates on footwear below INR 1000 from 5% to 12% in 2021. Additionally, there’s a push for ensuring quality standards through mandatory BIS (Bureau of Indian Standards) certification imposed on footwear products from 2023, further shaping the industry landscape.

& another Footwear and Leather Policy support…

For support industry Central Government in January 2022 announced continuation of ‘Indian Footwear and Leather Development Program (IFLDP) scheme till 2026. The Policy covering multi-aspects across

• Manufacturing – Modernization; capacity expansion; technology upgradation, Mega Leather Footwear and Accessories Cluster Development
• Sustainability – Setting up Common Effluent Treatment Plant), design and marketing of footwear. 
• Marketing – Central assistance for Brand Promotion of Indian Brands in Footwear and Leather Sector
• Designing Infrastructure – Central assistance for setting up and development of Design Studios
• Training and up-Skilling – Establishment and upgradation of Institutional Facilities like FDDI

Agra’s Industry today (Facts & numbers)

Agra manufactures approximately 4.5 crore pairs of shoes annually, averaging 150,000 pairs per day. This production includes 2.2 crore pairs of chappals and sandals, employing about 4.35 lakh individuals across an estimated 30,000 units, encompassing the surrounding regions. Traditionally, Agra has specialized in catering to the domestic footwear market, with a smaller segment dedicated to exports. Presently, it stands as India’s primary hub for (leather) footwear production, contributing to 65% of the domestic market and accounting for 35% of India’s total footwear exports. More than a quarter of the city’s population is directly or indirectly involved in the footwear industry.

Agra’s footwear spectrum spans from high-quality premium leather to non-leather products. Industry associations like AFMEC, CLE, CFTI, and other exporters highlight Agra’s swift responsiveness to buyer demands regarding seasonal and fashion trends as a key strength. Different areas within the city specialize in various levels of production activities. Agra benefits from ample raw material availability and a robust network of input suppliers. The cluster-based approach has significantly contributed to the city’s growth, serving as a successful model in its development.

The footwear industrial units in the region can be broadly categorized into four major types:

1. Household Units & Household Workshops:

   a. Operated mainly by family members of unit owners, utilizing traditional skills, basic tools, and minimal machinery.

   b. Manpower: 3-10 employees; typically family members or hired on a contract basis.

   c. Production: 24-48 pairs/day.

   d. Account for 50-60% of the total footwear units.

2. Workshop Units (Karkhana):

   a. Primarily serve domestic markets, with a few involved in exporting shoes or uppers through merchant exporters. Partially mechanized with limited machinery, sometimes outsourcing upper stitching to household units.

   b. Manpower: 20 to 40, mainly contractual.

   c. Production: 100-500 pairs/day.

   d. Constitute 30-40% of the total footwear units.

3. Semi-Mechanized Units:

   a. Operate with a hybrid approach, combining handmade and modern machine processes for shoe uppers and full shoes.

   b. Serve both national branded players and international brands or clients for exports.

   c. Manpower: 40 to 100 employees.

   d. Production: 200-1000 pairs/day.

   e. Contribute to 10-20% of the total footwear units.

4. Mechanized Units:

   a. Utilize modern advanced machinery extensively for most shoe manufacturing operations, following assembly line production.

   b. Primarily cater to prominent international premium and luxury brands.

   c. Manpower: 200-500+ employees.

   d. Production: 1000-3000 pairs/day.

This table demonstrates the growth trends in the number of units categorized as Mechanized & Semi-Mechanized, Workshop Units, and Household/Informal Units across different years, showcasing a substantial rise in each category over time. Source- DIC-Agra, https://agra.nic.in/economy/

Estimates of Workers in Footwear Sector in Agra 2020

Source- DIC-Agra, https://agra.nic.in/economy/

*However different agencies have quoted different numbers of workers in footwear sector. Director of Adhar: 1-1.5 lacs; Director, Leather, SISI: 2 Lacs. CLE, Agra: 3.5- 4 Lacs

(Note: Adhar is an NGO working with Central Leather Research Institute (CLRI) on the Umbrella Project)

The Stakeholder Network

Being a mature footwear manufacturing market, Agra has a strong network of stakeholders to support footwear manufacturing community of the region.

Industry Associations

• Agra Footwear Manufacturers Exporters Chamber (AFMEC)
• Agra Juta Dastkar Federation (AJDF)
• Bhim Yuva Vyapar Mandal (BYVM)
• Agra Juta Laghu Udyog Utpadak Samiti (AJLUUS)
• Agra Shoe Manufacturers Association (ASMA)
• Boot Manufacturers Association (BMA)

Shoe production Cluster, Mohalla’s and trading zones 

Academia

• Central Footwear Training Institute (CFTI), Agra a premium institute for footwear professional education, upskilling programs, and providing technical services to the MSME.
• Dayal Bagh Educational Institute (DEI), Government Leather Institute (GLI) are other institutions for leather and footwear learning.

Lasts Makers:

• New shoe lasts, made up of wood or PVC, are required by enterprises to cater frequent changes in shoe design.
• 7-10 PVC last manufacturers and 60-80 wooden last manufacturers.
• PVC lasts offer better quality, durable and recyclable; wooden last used for their low cost for economical shoe manufacturing.

Shoe Soles: 

• 100-150 manufacturing units.
• Types of soles like TPR, PV. PU, MCR Sheet, PVC and meet 70-80% of total demand.

Machinery suppliers:

• 10-15 footwear machine manufacturers and 15-18 agents & dealers dealing in all type of Chinese, Taiwanese, Korean, Indian & European machines.

Raw material & components

• Over 100 raw material manufacturers
• Most types of Upper materials – leather & synthetic and other components and Grindery material (adhesives, insole, stiffeners, eyelets, and laces) are easily available in the local wholesale markets to serve the industry network.

Regulatory Issues:

• Footwear manufacturing industry is in ‘Green’ category” and unit mandated to take ‘Consent for Operations (CFO)’ from the State Pollution Control Board (SPCB).
• Taj Trapezium Zone (TTZ): an area of 10,400 km² around the Taj Mahal. As per SC directive, footwear units under the TTZ are banned from using coal or coke in units and are mandated to switch over to natural gas.

The Trade Credit “Parchi” System:

The informal structure of Agra’s domestic supply chain operates from manufacturers to traders, wholesalers, and retailers before reaching consumers. Most transactions occur on credit, potentially causing financial strains for small artisans, manufacturers, and traders. To address this cash flow requirement and ensure credibility in commitments, Agra’s market devised an innovative method known as the “parchi” system. 

When shoe transactions take place, a “parchi,” or paper slip, is provided to the shoemaker, detailing the trader’s name, the amount owed, and the due date for payment. Signed by the traders, this slip acts as a promissory note, transferable to others. The parchi helps maintain financial liquidity by ensuring traders fulfill their obligation to whoever presents the slip on the due date. In response, informal financial intermediaries known as “aadhatiyas” have emerged. They purchase parchis at a discount and encash them from traders on the due date, earning through this discount. This system facilitates liquidity for shoemakers or traders while granting traders the credit they require. In some cases, parchis even function as a form of currency when shoemakers purchase raw materials using these slips. Trusted and sanctioned within the market, the parchi has become an accessible, efficient, and trustworthy commitment within this informal financial system.

The GI – Tag

Geographical Indications (GIs) represent a form of intellectual property that indicates a product’s origin. These indications signify the reputation, quality, or distinctive attributes of a specific product owing to its geographical origin. GIs cover various categories, including agricultural, natural, or manufactured goods, with the latter requiring production within a specific geographic area. The recognition of GIs serves two key purposes: it instills trust among consumers, enabling them to identify and appreciate quality products, while simultaneously assisting producers in enhancing the marketing of their goods.

GI Origins

Geographical indications (GI) emanate from Trade-Related Aspects of Intellectual Property Rights (or TRIPS) Agreement, which came into effect on January 1, 1995. The core objective of the TRIPS agreement was to establish standardized protection measures for Intellectual Property Rights (IPR) across member nations. This involved implementing specific general principles and mechanisms for dispute resolution among WTO Members. Article 22 of the TRIPS agreement mandated governments to offer legal avenues to owners of a Geographical Indication (GI) registered in their country, allowing them to prevent the use of marks that could mislead the public regarding the actual geographical origin of a product. This prevention extends to cases where a geographic name, while factually accurate, could create a false impression that the product originates from a different location. Additionally, this provision allows interested parties to request the refusal or invalidation of a trademark registration that incorporates a geographical indication concerning goods not originating from the indicated territory.

Geographical Indicators in INDIA & Fashion

India, as a founding member of the WTO, ratified the TRIPS Agreement in 1994, which became effective on January 1, 1995. The country introduced the Geographical Indications (Registration and Protection) Rules in 1999, enforced under the Geographical Indications (Registration and Protection) Rules, 2002. Before this enactment, there were no specific laws governing GIs in India. The GI Act played a pivotal role by:

– Governing GIs of goods nationwide, benefiting the producers.

– Safeguarding against GI misuse, protecting consumers from deception.

– Promoting India-specific goods with GI tags in the global export market.

The Act delineates key terms and interpretations, such as geographical indication goods, producers, package, registered proprietor, authorized user, among others. GI tags serve a distinct purpose from trademarks, indicating the product’s origin, belonging not to an individual or entity but to an entire region or community.

It’s important to note that GI registration is optional in India. The registration process involves two steps: initial registration of the product and its area, followed by the registration of manufacturers and users. For a product to gain popularity and recognition worldwide, it must first establish awareness within India.

Darjeeling Tea from West Bengal secured the first GI tag in India in 2004, while Pochampalli Ikat from Telangana was the inaugural handicraft textile under the fashion category. As of August 31, 2023, India has 475 products registered with GI tags, comprising 441 Indian goods and 34 international goods across categories like agriculture, handicrafts, manufacturing, foodstuff, wines, spirits, and natural goods. Among the 441 Indian GI tags, a substantial number are related to handicrafts and manufacturing processes involving textiles, embroidery, weaving, dyeing, and printing, components integral to fashion apparel. Additionally, 7 GI tags are associated with handicrafts and manufactured goods in the footwear and leather industry. A recent addition to this list was the Agra Leather Footwear, receiving its GI tag in August 2023.

• Table 1

GI Tags related to Footwear and Leather 

GI – Advantage, Challenges & way forward

The essence of India embracing GI Tags lies in authenticating its rich heritage, particularly in handicrafts, agriculture, and manufacturing, collectively owned by producers within a region. These tags offer recognition to rural areas, artisans, and generations of craft legacy. They serve as a form of protection for those unable to invest in branding, asserting their original skills developed over centuries. GI tags establish brand equity, vouching for the authenticity of the product’s origin.

While GI tags don’t guarantee export success, they grant assurance to both large and small-scale producers, including less-recognized export contributors, expanding business opportunities beyond borders. However, post-registration, efforts to amplify the product’s aura have been limited. Producers lack resources for marketing, product enhancement, and brand building.

Government initiatives and a clear policy framework are essential to raise awareness among GI product manufacturers. Beyond being a brand-building tool, government support through funding, tax benefits, incentives, and education is vital to leverage GI tags. Lack of awareness hinders the potential of GI tags in popularizing indigenous, high-quality products globally, improving livelihoods and encouraging investments in rural communities.

Maintenance of quality standards is often overlooked. Contrastingly, the zeal with which Champagne GI is protected and promoted emphasizes excellence, forming the cornerstone of its designation, not just a geographical indication. In India, despite numerous GI tags, opportunities to enhance branding and commercial value remain largely untapped, spanning various handicrafts like textiles, garments, footwear, and leather products.

A classic case like Banarasi Sarees and Brocades highlights the gap between GI tag issuance and tangible benefits. The weavers struggle as the motifs and designs are replicated using inferior materials at higher prices. Lack of a unified representative body exacerbates their challenges, warranting legal aid and representation.

The Indian Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999 strives to preserve India’s cultural wealth but faces implementation gaps. Unauthorized use of GI tags persists without concrete prevention measures. These tags cater to manufacturers lacking the resources for high-cost branding, necessitating a multilateral system for protection. Successful GI stories remain scarce due to insufficient marketing, consumer awareness, and legal recourse.

What Next for Agra Leather Footwear!

In the ongoing pursuit of leveraging Geographical Indication (GI) tags for Agra’s Leather Shoe Manufacturing, the Agra Footwear Manufacturers & Exporters Chamber (AFMEC) has made strides to establish Agra Footwear on the GI map. However, this achievement marks just the beginning of a larger endeavor.

Looking ahead, AFMEC faces the challenge of effectively utilizing the GI tag to gain commercial advantage in both global and local markets. Balancing the interests of local artisans with export aspirations will be crucial in reasserting Agra’s heritage and global standing in the realm of Leather Footwear.

The critical aspect lies in maintaining stringent quality control standards throughout the supply chain to ensure the final product aligns with the defined specifications. Equally essential is providing workshops, skill development programs, and awareness initiatives for artisans to refine their craftsmanship, preserving this integral part of Indian history. Safeguarding the credibility of the 400,000+ Agra artisan community is paramount. Regulating markets to eliminate counterfeit and substandard products is vital in upholding the authenticity of Agra’s footwear.

The success stories of iconic products like French Champagne, Columbian coffee, Havana Cigars, and Tennessee whiskey demonstrate the significance of organized marketing strategies in building exclusivity and premium value. Beyond the GI tag, comprehensive policy reforms and robust marketing endeavors are imperative to establish a brand identity, ensure recall value, and directly engage consumers while consistently delivering impeccable quality and craftsmanship.

The question lingers: Could Agra Leather Footwear mirror the Champagne moment for India’s GI team and the Footwear Industry? 

The answer rests in the collective efforts to infuse innovation, quality, and strategic marketing to elevate Agra’s footwear to a global pedestal, setting a new standard in the world of GI-tagged products.

by Ayaan Chopra

Jim explains “In situations where not all markets are performing well, the company’s strategy
is to concentrate on the ones that are thriving.” This rationale underlies his decision to enhance Taiwan Sincere Pioneer Enterprise Co.’s position within the dynamic footwear machinery sector by vigorously pursuing research and development initiatives.

Sincere Pioneer Machinery Co., LTD is guided by a commitment to the highest quality, sincere service, and the complete satisfaction of its customers. The company possesses cutting-edge equipment and an extensive after-sales service network, enabling us to deliver both exceptional products and outstanding service. In response to the increasing demands for equipment and product quality from its customers, they have conscientiously expanded their business scope, driven by an unwavering spirit of research and innovation, to address the genuine needs of its clients.

Sincere Pioneer Machinery Co. LTD. is an enterprise originating from Taiwan and operates two manufacturing facilities situated in Taichung, Taiwan and Dongguan, China. Sincere Pioneer used to be the manufacturer of ChenFeng machines, the Sincere Pioneer brand was established after the brand of ChenFeng been merged by ChenFull about 20 years ago. However, the management team, development team and experienced technicians are the same as 20 years ago and the company kept integrating machines and technology for the past 20 years.

The China factory is staffed by over 20 Taiwanese experts, many of whom boast more than two decades of experience in their respective fields. The factory facilities cover an area of 12,000 square meters and are equipped with state-of-the-art CNC digital precision lathes, SUNNEN milling machines from the United States, and other advanced processing equipment. With a commitment to delivering high- quality products, impeccable services, and a business philosophy grounded in trust, innovation, enthusiasm, and teamwork, we have steadily and reliably served our customers through three distinct business departments: shoemaking machinery, firefighting equipment, and the vibration reducer department.

The Taiwan Factory, Sincere Pioneer Enterprise Co. LTD. Recognizes the robust growth of the footwear industry and the surging demand in Southeast Asia, India, Russia, Turkey, South America, as well as the local market in Taiwan. Its mission is to cater to and fulfill the substantial requirements of the international market. Moreover, the footwear industry has been experiencing significant changes in recent years, characterized by a shortage of labor in shoe manufacturing and a challenge in maintaining production capacity.

Consequently, the need to optimize production processes and replace manual labor with machinery has become increasingly urgent. Sincere Pioneer Enterprise Co. LTD. possesses a comprehensive supply chain in Taiwan and boasts a world-class development team dedicated to the creation of semi- automatic and fully automated shoe- making equipment. The company’s highest objective is to drive innovation, conduct research and development, and elevate customer satisfaction to new heights.

Jim states that “The innovation we’ve accomplished in the past two years has
led to enhanced machine efficiency and security. This, in turn, has resulted in a decrease in the total cost of ownership for our users, encompassing maintenance and repairs. Customers have acknowledged the improvements in machine availability and performance, which has contributed to the growth of our market share.” Much of this growth is being invested back into the company, which is in an expansion mode and looking at new markets.

“Sustainability is a fundamental element embedded in every aspect of our operations. As we create solutions for our clients, our primary goal is to provide them with sustainable solutions,” he explains. “This entails designing our products to be energy- efficient, thus reducing their environmental footprint. It also involves extending the lifespan of our machines.”

Sincere Pioneer has amassed a wealth of experience spanning two to three decades in the field of shoemaking machinery. Jim notes, “The company possess a deep understanding of customer demands and preferences, and our commitment lies in catering to the specific needs of our market. One prevalent challenge faced by our customers was the need to switch between different shoe types on their assembly lines, often resulting in reduced production efficiency. To address this issue, we engineered the toe lasting machine, designed to facilitate “Quick and Easy Change for Multiple Toe Last Shapes.” Our primary objective was to minimize the time required for adjustments when transitioning between various shoe types, ultimately enhancing production rates—aligning perfectly with our customers’ desires.
Our core focus is on “Innovative Differences,” a principle that drives us to continuously enhance customer satisfaction. We remain unwavering in our dedication, persistently striving for innovation in both product development and service excellence.”

MACHINES FOR HIGH HEEL WOMEN SHOES
The SP-818MA+ Computerized Automatic Cementing Toe Lasting Machine (featuring Servo-motor feeding), SP-666MAS Visual Locus Four-Axis Servo-Controlled Heel & Side Lasting Machine, and a heel and side lasting machine designed for ladies’ shoes with heels reaching up to 13cm, have garnered recognition from numerous renowned shoe factories worldwide. These machines are advancing automation and cost-efficiency in the industry. Many countries with a prominent presence in the shoe industry have embraced these SP machines.

The company maintains service offices globally, including multiple locations in China such as Beijing, Tianjin, Hebei, Henan, Shandong, Hubei, Shanghai, Wenzhou, Jiangsu, Fujian, Jiangxi, Huidong, Chengdu, Foshan, Zhongshan and Dongguan, as well as overseas service offices and agents in Vietnam, Cambodia, Myanmar, Indonesia, Turkey, and Middle North America. “Our commitment to customer satisfaction knows no bounds. We aspire to address even minor machine issues promptly. To meet this goal, we organize shoe machinery training programs tailored to train operators and technicians among our customers’ workforces. From 2006 to 2015, we successfully conducted 40 sessions of the Shoe Machinery Training Program, benefiting over 900 technicians. This comprehensive program encompasses hydraulic systems and theory, machinery maintenance, adjustments,
and configuration. We eagerly anticipate continuing our contributions to the shoe industry, providing the best we can offer.” Jim stated.

Loyalty is the answer.

This doesn’t mean that Jim doesn’t encounter challenges in his role at the helm of Taiwan Sincere Pioneer Enterprise Co. On the contrary, the challenges he faces are, somewhat expectedly, a consequence of the company’s impressive growth. Jim elaborates, “Recently, we’ve come to realize that some of our suppliers have limitations and struggle to keep pace with our expanding demands.”

Jim’s solution involves a blend of loyalty and transparency. He explains, “We make
a conscious effort to cultivate long-term relationships with both our customers
and suppliers. We adhere to a policy of steadfastness—we don’t switch or make abrupt changes. Instead, we maintain open and transparent communication with them, and when necessary, we integrate additional partners into our supply chain to meet our customers’ evolving requirements.”

In this manner, none of Taiwan Sincere Pioneer Enterprise Co.’s suppliers ever find themselves surprised to discover that they share clients with their industry rivals and colleagues. The company’s dedication to its suppliers aligns with its treatment of its workforce. Taiwan Sincere Pioneer Enterprise Co. is perpetually on the lookout for fresh talent. According to Jim, the key to building a robust team is also loyalty.

Jim asserts, “Similar to any organization, persuading employees to join is both essential and challenging. However, I can assure potential recruits of one thing – once they become part of our team, they tend to stay for the long haul.” He continues, “When you value your employees and provide them with opportunities for growth, remarkable achievements become possible within a company. So, while attracting new talent may present its challenges, retaining them is second nature to us. It’s ingrained in our corporate culture.”

The future across the sea

Having found success in the southeast Asia and European market, Jim says
his current ambition is to harness the research, the positive company culture, and the environmental consciousness he has cultivated at Taiwan Sincere Pioneer Enterprise Co. to create new markets abroad. “We are being very boastful in India,” Jim says. “It’s not a huge volume – but it’s still a very important move for us to have an industrial platform – market in India and to be able to develop products that are adapted to these environments.”

He says he’s also looking forward to upcoming plans to garner business for its products in India “When we launch products in a new country, we bring with us our high standards for safety, efficiency and working conditions, all while developing solutions specifically designed for that market,” Jim says. While conquering the global market may be the goal for Taiwan Sincere Pioneer Enterprise Co., Jim emphasizes that a more attainable gauge of success would involve methodical and gradual growth. “I would like to see our performance improve in India. We have plans to organize our teams and launch a certain number of new products there – all we need to do is extend it to develop our market share,” he says.

“Name 10 top global shoemakers and seven would be our customers,” Executive Assistant to CEO Carol Chen declares confidently. HORNG CHII’s international customer base spans across 30 plus countries and brings in around 70% of its revenue. In Taiwan, where the firm has its main plant and head office, its presence is even stronger.

Hong Chii Machinery was founded in 1978 and originated from Taichung City, Taiwan’s shoe-making center. This year’s 45th anniversary is dedicated to the research and development and manufacture of various multi-functional plastic and rubber injection, extrusion, and thermoforming. It entered the mainland market in 1988 and entered the mainland market in 2012. In 2013, the Vietnam office was established, and the Indonesian office was established in 2013. The main goal is to save manpower, reduce costs, save resources, and improve efficiency.

Horng Chii Machinery, a company that has been manufacturing shoe machines in Taiwan since 1978, has ushered in the 45th year of enterprise development this year. The customers in the footwear industry served cover Taiwan, mainland China, Southeast Asia, and Central and South America. Professional development of professional machines for shoe soles, sporting goods, and other plastic products, with injection system/extrusion system/hot pressing system, multi-functional and automatic intelligent equipment, can produce TPR, TR, PVC, TPU, EVA, RUBBER, PU, etc. Various products.

In recent years, adhering to the 4R (Recycle, Reuse, Replace and Reduce) concept of environmental protection, research and development of various energy-saving technologies, in-depth and extensive research and practice, to achieve the purpose of saving energy, manpower, and material consumption, to meet the needs of customers to reduce production costs through energy conservation, to achieve enterprise efficiency, and to create environment and nature at the same time harmony.

“We initiated this process by delivering exceptional after-sales service to our clientele,” Carol explains. “It extends beyond merely sourcing the appropriate machinery; we also offer assistance in the installation and operation of these machines. We firmly uphold our commitments in this sector.” The reason it appeared highly improbable is due to the prevalent lack of trust in this industry. Manufacturers purchasing equipment often harbor concerns about acquiring machinery that might malfunction, especially from sellers who may not assume responsibility in case of issues.

“I’m delighted to mention that within this industry, many individuals may not be familiar with the founder, but they are well-acquainted with our company,” Carol remarks. “They recognize Horng Chii as a reputable firm that consistently fulfills its commitments. This has become our brand identity, setting us apart in a field with numerous competitors.”

Horng Chii is a well reputed company, and they keep their promises. That’s the brand image they have created, and this is the unique feature of the company. There are many people doing this business, but they are one of a kind. Horng Chii has plans to diversify beyond its current core verticals by creating a global platform to connect different stakeholders throughout the footwear industry. “We see the footwear industry overall as highly fragmented, despite its importance,” Carol says.

“Footwear sector is a significant industry, maybe second only to agriculture in terms of the employment opportunities it offers on a global scale. Governments and industry leaders alike allocate resources to this sector because the entry barriers are relatively low. However, as nations begin to reap the rewards of its growth, they often transition away from the footwear industry and venture into other sectors. Consequently, this industry continually shifts from one location to another, with companies constantly seeking new sources where labor and raw materials are more cost-effective. With this in mind, we plan to help add value by unifying a fragmented industry.”

Carol shoulders a significant responsibility in maintaining the momentum of the global footwear industry. “Our clients have high expectations, and it’s our duty to meet them,” she emphasizes. Fortunately, she is a woman who adeptly tackles every challenge that comes her way. After all, as a dedicated employee of the company for 25 years, she can be considered to have weathered the ups and downs alongside the business. Even the challenges posed
by COVID-19 didn’t unsettle her. She notes, “Life continues. We are already accustomed to dealing with the routine challenges that any business encounters in the market. Every industry experience cycles, and prior to the pandemic, the footwear industry underwent a global downturn that had reverberations in the shoe sector. We are in all these areas and the challenge is to remain in them, grow in them, and keep our people involved in them. This has
been the overall challenge.” Pandemic or not, the plan is to continue a pathway of uninterrupted horizontal expansion. HORNG CHII is keen to establish itself as an end-to- end solution provider for all machinery and systems required by a shoe plant. “We are a team of more than 100 people and keeping them engaged and upgrading their skills is an ongoing necessity. Our aim extends beyond merely providing equipment; we strive to offer solutions that hold genuine value for our customers.”

“We aspire for our machines to do more than just fulfill the tasks programmed by the client; our goal is to exceed expectations by providing additional value. These are pivotal elements that will guide our business towards the desired direction, encompassing a broader range of offerings, enhanced predictability, versatility, and functionality in our machinery. Our objective is not limited to equipment delivery; we aim to provide solutions that genuinely resonate with our customers. The Internet of Things (IoT) will play a significant role in measuring and controlling various machine performance metrics, including material consumption patterns. It can also be employed for predictive maintenance.” Carol States and believes that by striving to provide the best solutions and services, HORNG CHII will naturally carve out a spot for itself in the market.

“We are a Taiwanese company engaged in competition with shoe machinery manufacturers from Europe and the Americas, known for their technological advancements, as well as those in China and Taiwan, renowned for cost- effectiveness. Our distinct positioning lies in finding the equilibrium, allowing us to offer the best of both worlds: technologically advanced products at competitive prices. Our goal is to establish ourselves as genuine value providers, ensuring that when our customers have any machinery needs, HORNG CHII is the first name that springs to mind. I aspire for the company to reach this coveted position. By prioritizing customer satisfaction, we can count on them to support our business in return.” Says Carol.

by Ayaan Chopra 

Annually, MINZ aids factories across the globe in preserving over 10 million kilowatt-hours, a measure that equates to the planting of 620,000 mature trees on a worldwide scale. At its core, MINZ’s mission is rooted in fostering a harmonious equilibrium between human requirements and environmental preservation. By curtailing corporate electricity consumption and curbing the generation of wasteful materials, MINZ is committed to achieving this synergy. The conviction that energy conservation and CO2 reduction should be global endeavours underscores MINZ’s reach, with clients spanning across more than 20 countries worldwide. 

In an era marked by continuous increases in global material prices, electricity costs, and labour salaries, factories engaged in the production of consumer goods face a substantial burden on their production expenses. To address these challenges, MINZ and its collaborators have developed an array of products and services geared towards enhancing production efficiency and cost-effectiveness.

Offerings include: 

Cutting Energy Saving System 

MINZ offers a cutting-edge energy-saving system that significantly reduces the electricity consumption of production machinery. 

• ECO Plane Cutting Machine 

This innovative machine is designed to optimize cutting processes, thereby conserving energy while maintaining high levels of productivity. 

• Traveling Head Cutting Machine 

MINZ provides a traveling head cutting machine, which is a key component in precision cutting operations that can lead to substantial energy savings. 

• SwingArmCuttingMachine 

Another energy-efficient solution, the swing arm cutting machine, offers precise and efficient cutting processes, contributing to reduced energy consumption. 

• CutBot and Other Energy Saving Machines 

MINZ offers a variety of energy-saving machines, including the CutBot, and other specialized equipment designed to minimize energy usage in manufacturing processes. 

Machines exported annually: 200 units Major Markets: Asia, America, Africa

• Technological strength:
  • Cutting technology
  • Energy Saving technology
  • IoT technology

Ultimately, MINZ collaborates with global partners to offer a comprehensive suite of production-saving solutions and support, ensuring that factories can navigate the challenges of rising costs and achieve enhanced operational efficiency. Minz has strategically centred its business on substantial and weighty undertakings states Mike Chang, CEO Minz, “On average, their energy savings range from 70% to 90% when compared to conventional power systems. Moreover, when the shoe-making machine is not in the cutting process, it operates completely silently, producing no noise, and effectively lowers the temperature of the hydraulic fluid and motor components by half.” The CEO elaborates, “Minz is a specialized company focused on the conception, production, strategic planning, and installation of unique equipment and solutions tailored for the purpose of handling.”

Consider the case of an EVA Injection Machine equipped with MINZ Energy System. On average, it saves approximately 23 kilowatt-hours (kWh) per hour of operation. This translates to an annual electricity cost savings of approximately US$22,000. This not only reduces the production expenses but also contributes to a reduction in CO2 emissions per kWh, thereby fostering a cleaner environment for the benefit of future generations. While it has built a name on extra-large pieces of handling equipment, it remains compact in size, with fewer than 500 employees. 

In the realm of IoT technology, the MINZ Smart Box offers the versatility to be installed on a factory’s pre-existing machines, regardless of their brands, models, or analog signal outputs. It efficiently gathers quality-related data encompassing parameters like pressure, temperature, speed, vibration, energy consumption, and carbon emissions. Subsequently, it compiles and presents this data digitally on a unified IoT platform for comprehensive analysis and monitoring. 

Whenever machine settings are not within standards range, the IoT platform will trigger the Andon system and alert the factory manager automatically. These production resumes can be traced and analysed for constant improvements. “Although MINZ Smart Box is shoe-machine-specific, they can be used on other industrial machines with tailor-made functions as shoe machines come in variety of types and data,” says Chang. 

MINZ has completed the setup of more than 18 assembly lines in smart factories producing Nike, New Balance, Crocs, Relaxo, Skechers, Decathlon and Brooks to name a few, providing factory and QC managers real-time monitoring of production floor. Before implementation, managers used to rely on paper recorded data, which is time-consuming and lacks authenticity. Real-time data from the factory floor provides managers facts for prompt management even when they are remotely in the office. 

Mike stated, “From a technical perspective, our machines stand as superior product in the market, and this is how we’ve managed to gain traction in the Chinese, Vietnamese and Indonesian market, catering to the unique needs and context of China, Vietnam and Indonesia.” Chang also points out that, beyond China, there are promising opportunities in countries such as India, where he observes significant potential due to the substantial urban expansion investments being made by their respective governments. “Opportunities will invariably arise for us within these extensive multibillion-dollar infrastructure initiatives,” he says. 

Mike is excited by what he sees in India. An aspiration to achieve complete digitalization and high automation, which will unlock opportunities for intelligent manufacturing facilities, drives his enthusiasm. He is also inspired by the potential impact Minz can have on the progress of Indian footwear sector, envisioning a role in elevating them to efficient international standards. Technical competence, quality and reliability are what Mike believes sets Minz apart in the marketplace. 

Since the inception of MINZ Inc., we have consistently absorbed knowledge and relevant technology in the realm of production efficiency to meet the demands of our clients. We take great pride in the trust placed in us by our clients and the positive testimonials we’ve earned. MINZ serves clients from diverse industries including footwear, plastic injection, food and beverage, power generation, automotive, high technology, sports, and manufacturing. Our aspiration is to contribute to a more sustainable global environment by helping these industries reduce energy consumption and lower CO2 emissions. 

By Ayaan Chopra

ChenFull primarily serves leading companies in the shoemaking machinery, aerospace, optoelectronics, semiconductor, and water resources sectors, evolving into a diversified enterprise over time. A subtle transformation is taking place in the field of precision engineering, yet its effects may go largely unnoticed by those beyond its immediate sphere. In an industry that demands continuous improvement and adaptation to remain competitive in a challenging and swiftly evolving market, this shift may be uncomfortable but is an essential evolution. 

Several years ago, Alice Chang, the President of Chenfull Precision, demonstrated remarkable foresight by anticipating technological shifts that had the potential to disrupt the precision engineering sector. She leaders the group to go through the period of handcrafted shoes to machine-craft shoes. She was resolute in her commitment to reconfigure the company in response to the challenges that loomed over what is referred to as a conservative industry. Her aim was to secure Chenfull’s position as a global leader in the face of these challenges. She also saw the real potential of digital technologies that were already disrupting other industries and took the plunge to transition the company to a new way of working. Alice is a pioneer in the field of shoe-making machines. 

ChenFull has steadfastly upheld its business principles of integrity, proactiveness, innovation and breakthrough since its inception. Leveraging its engineering service team and technological expertise, ChenFull is committed to delivering factory engineering services for high-tech industries. Chenfeng boasts robust research and development capabilities in machinery, electronic control, automation, and system integration, encompassing production design, manufacturing, assembly, quality control, testing, global marketing, and customer service. 

Under the mission of “Perfecting Your Shoes,” Chenfeng is dedicated to advancing shoemaking machinery with the initial goal of “Helping more people have shoes,” which has now evolved into “Helping more people have nice shoes.” 

New Ideas, New Products 

ChenFull manufactures machines – ones that demand high precision and tight operational tolerances. To be the largest shoe-making machinery manufacturer in Asia, the company insist that quality and innovation cannot make concession all the time; therefore, they accumulate very good reputation and win appreciative criticism in the industry identically. The company has maintained long term cooperative relationship with many famous shoe manufacturers which produce well-known brands such as Nike, Adidas, Asics, Puma, Ecco, D&G, Rossi, Daphne and so on. An average of one pair of sports shoes are produced by Chenfeng machinery in every five pairs of sports shoes worldwide. 

Company Profile

• Precision Technology Parts & Shoe Machinery 
• Overall Annual Turnover: TWD 5 Bn+
• Machinery Turnover: TWD 1 Bn 
• Average sale price: 
  • Traditional Machines: TWD 600,000
  • Automated Machines: TWD 2 Mn 

The company’s capabilities stretch beyond machining. ChenFull has invested heavily in combining digital technology with its machines, making it a global leader in transitioning its machines to high-technology digital operations. The advantages are enormous and far reaching. A key focus of the shift by ChenFull is to adopt technologies such as advanced robotics and IoT technologies. ChenFull is enhancing its capabilities in automation, advanced robotics, and collecting and digitizing supply chain data. The  company intends to continue investing heavily in research and development and to increase its existing team of 100 engineers. 

Ricky says “Through the principles of the IoT and design of the facility, we hope to meet the growing demand for high-quality products and sophisticated precision engineering capabilities in Asia. Our smart factory consists of an assembly factory and state-of-the-art machines, leveraging seamless automation and digital technologies to achieve high levels of productivity and connectivity between our robots, machines, and other peripheral systems. Through the solutions, we expect the clients’ factories to almost double their production capacity and maintain superior product quality.”

Koli Chen added “Our machines are energy- saving and efficient solutions; we are working to transform the machines to deliver green energy. ChenFull’s customers will certainly see the benefits of this transformation. Operators of all skill levels can be trained to use it for setting up and running machines and managing tooling processes.” 

Ricky says “We believe, in Taiwan, we are always very good in terms of quality standards. So, we always go through a philosophy of continual improvement. We always encourage our people to see things that they can improve to make things even more efficient and more cost effective.” 

Inside a Tight Market 

Asia is undergoing a surge of economic maturity, and every manufacturer is keen to catch that wave. But while rising wages and other costs have driven some manufacturers to shift their bases to China, Indonesia etc. Ricky was adamant that ChenFull continues to produce in Taiwan and the countries too. The drive for greater efficiency is a direct result of the current market, gyrating under the pressure of global competition, trade wars and the rapid development of ChenFull’s immediate region. “I think this industry has come a long way, and one of the biggest challenges we’ve been going through is that we are operating in a very competitive market,” Edwin says. “We are also operating in a region with many different countries, different cultures, different languages, and different backgrounds. So, we always try to leverage being the first mover, getting into the market where nobody has been before.” 

“As a global leader in footwear machining, our successes in recent years have been achieved through our focus on China and India. We’ve been in India for almost 15-20 years, and so far, we have built up a very good rapport with customers and you can see the huge potential of this market moving forward. But everybody seems to be only talking about China. I think India is really an up-and-coming market.” 

USP – ENERGY SAVING CUSTOMISED MACHINES Certainly, our model CF-787S is a Full Servo-controlled Tracer Toe Lasting Machine. The operator can simply draw the toe shape by using the insole board on HMI for gluing path. It has an integrated auto-grading option. The nozzle movements are controlled by servomotor, gluing path shows actual toe shape. The position of wiper seat and the height of insole stabilizer are digital controlled able to save as pattern parameter. Additionally, it equips 300 sets of parameter memory capability, able to input and output parameters by USB. Other options like Sigma 300 & CF-728CS to super options too. All the machines are CE certificated series products. 

“I think the kind of challenge that we face is trying to expand to different markets, so once we have stabilized in a certain market, we may realize that whatever we succeeded in doing in that market may not be the same way that we achieved results in another market. This is something we always want to investigate. We always look to have a local partner run our operations, and to place a lot of trust and confidence in them. This is always a learning process for us. Recently, we started to look seriously into India operations and realized that, even within the same country, the markets in Agra and Chennai can be totally different,” he concedes. Koli states “ChenFull’s pride is always on quality and service, to provide a holistic experience to all customers. Customers will benefit from our one-stop solution for every size and industry.”

Ricky emphasizes the need for ongoing innovation considering the rapid growth in high-tech industries like aerospace and footwear production. He acknowledges the increasing buzz surrounding digitalization, the Internet of Things (IoT), artificial intelligence (AI), machine learning, and big data analytics over the past few years. Ricky believes that even in a traditional industry like theirs, they must seriously consider embracing a more digital-oriented path. Their focus should shift from primarily being a hardware-centric company to becoming more of a services and software-oriented entity, with the aim of staying ahead of their competitors. 

Shakira to serves as Brand Ambassador for Ipanema Sandals Sempre Nova Collection

Shakira, celebrated for her distinctive voice, timeless hits, and iconic dance moves, is not only an accomplished artist but also a successful entrepreneur and philanthropist. She perfectly embodies the core values of Ipanema: female empowerment, a celebration of everyday determination, and the inspiration to journey towards self-discovery.

The Ipanema Sempre Nova collection, which translates as “Always New,” showcases five styles available in adult, children, and baby sizes, including flip-flop sandals, flat sandals, slides, flats and platform sandals. Each design is a fusion of fashion and trend, embracing the spirit of the modern woman.

Expressing her excitement about the partnership, Shakira said, “I’m happy to announce this partnership and join forces with Ipanema, in a campaign that seeks to highlight female journeys and carries an important message for all women to place value on every step they take both towards themselves and their dreams.”

Kate Minner, Chief Marketing Officer of Grendene Global Brands, said: “We are thrilled to welcome Shakira on board as the Global Ambassador for Ipanema Sempre Nova. This collection resonates with people from diverse backgrounds, just like Shakira does through her music and humanitarian endeavors. She personifies the positive strength that both she and Ipanema radiate.”

Source: PRNewswire

The Indian leather industry holds a prominent place as a leading contributor to the domestic economy as well as in the global leather production landscape. With a robust production of 3 billion sq ft of leather annually, India contributes nearly 13% of the world’s total leather production.  This sector is known for its consistency in high export earnings and is among the top ten foreign exchange earners for the country.

Authored by: Dr K A Vijayakumar, National Manager – Sustainability Services, Connectivity & Products, SGS India Private Limited

While these statistics affirm a very positive stance for the industry, a deeper delve behind the scenes, into the manufacturing facilities, reveals the massive challenge on sustainability front. Tannery effluents carry heavy pollution loads due to a massive presence of highly colored compounds, sodium chloride and sulphate, various organic and inorganic substances, toxic metallic compounds, different types of tanning materials which are biologically oxidizable, and large quantities of putrefying suspended matter. Solid wastes include animal skin trims, animal hairs, flesh wastes, buffing dust and keratin wastes. All these wastes contain protein as the main component. This protein if not utilized properly, becomes hazardous for the environment. Poor management of chemicals at leather manufacturing facilities can lead to adverse impacts on human health (posing risk of cancer, neurological and reproductive impairments) as well as environment (ground and surface water contamination, aquatic toxicity, air pollution).

Leather manufacturers need to implement practices to minimize or eliminate human health and environmental impacts resulting from their operations. These practices should not be restricted to their facilities and need to extend beyond, to supply chain partners as well. A robust and scaleable Chemical Management System (CMS) is the answer. Better chemicals management can lead to better products, in the form of improved quality and consistency. It also positions the brand at the forefront as a leader in the emerging efforts of industry to publicly report and rank companies’ chemical management practices, demonstrate compliance and build customer confidence.

Unfortunately, the common understanding of chemical management for companies is limited to implementation of Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) and Restricted Substances List (RSL). A robust chemicals management program is much broader in scope, addresses various aspects and involves multiple touchpoints.

• Does the facility meet all the local regulatory requirements on chemical management like storage and handling of chemicals, disposal of used/expired chemicals?
• Supply Chain:
  • Forward Integration: Does the facility have a system to ensure RSL and regulatory compliance for the final products and across its supply chain?
  • Backward Integration: Does the facility have a system for sourcing materials that ensures appropriate chemicals management practices are in place?
• Does the facility have awareness about the chemicals used during production processes, residuals in final products, and their impact on human health and environment?
• Has the facility implemented proactive steps to innovate and use positive chemistries, and synchronize them with product performance needs?

Towards Greater Efficiencies

Poor and irresponsible management of chemicals can be hazardous and pose a significant risk to health and safety of personnel as well as environment. Implementation of Chemical Management System introduces a range of tangible benefits. These include:

• Avoid excessive / replicative purchase of chemicals. Often, the excessively purchased chemicals get expired, requiring disposal in the effluent stream. This further loads the Effluent Treatment Plant and harms the environment.
• Helps in cost savings, through more efficient practices such as correct storage, handling, use and disposal procedures.
• Enables easy identification of hazardous chemicals in the chemical inventory.
• Chemical Management helps to reduce chemical loading onto the Effluent Treatment Plant or ETP. Reducing duplication and optimizing exact dosage of use, choosing chemicals with lower inherent COD (Chemical Oxygen Demand) and BOD (Bio-chemical Oxygen Demand) values and reducing non-productive outputs that ‘go down the drain’ can ensure lower loads on ETP and thereby manageable effluent treatment costs.
• Builds a better understanding of input chemicals and enables organizations to meet the stringent requirements of effluent, air and sludge discharges outlined in the License to Operate.
• Builds Buyer Confidence and provides a competitive edge – Buyers prefer facilities that conform to their chemical restriction requirements and comply with all regulatory norms.

Execution Is Critical To Success:

One of the key elements of chemical management is the Chemical Management Team. The responsibility for the implementation of a chemical management program lies not with an individual, but with a team. Active involvement and participation of the following departments is critical:

• The Environmental, Health and Safety (EHS) Department – The EHS Manager is a pivotal member of the Chemical Management Team and should oversee the entire chemical management system.
• The Effluent Treatment Plant – The ETP Manager should provide insight and understanding of the impacts on effluent from chemicals used in the manufacturing processes.
• The Purchase Department – should ensure that only those chemicals and raw materials which are complying with regulation to be purchased in the factory and that all documents related to the purchased chemicals are in order.
• The Quality Department – should ensure that the chemicals used in the final product meet the chemical requirements of brands, regulations etc. along with other performance requirements.
• The Operations or Production Department – must check that the chemicals used in production are applied as per the recommendations of the chemical supplier in terms of dosage and application conditions.

The factory management should first make a commitment for the implementation of a Chemical Management System. Once done, the management must initiate the below actions:

1. Review of procurement and supplier practices.
2. Identification and documentation of chemicals- related documents such as SDS (Safety Data Sheets), compliance certificates etc.
3. Assess the regulatory compliance requirements for chemicals used and discharged from the factory.

A Chemical Risk Assessment of the inventory is performed to identify the chemicals and processes of concern. This list can also be obtained through the review of procurement practices and regulatory assessment. Performance goals and action plans should then be initiated. These will require:

1. Organizational structure to manage chemicals, documentation & record keeping and development & control of systems.
2. Training of internal and external stakeholders on chemical management work practices and emergency procedures.

These performance goals should be monitored and measured through frequent audits and/or wastewater testing. Change management and corrective actions (wherever applicable) should be undertaken promptly.

Good Practices in CMS:

Thorough training must be provided to the personnel involved in CMS implementation. The ZDHC Foundation frequently conducts training programs on CMS for the textile and leather & footwear industries. One can keep the below listed good practices in mind for a successful implementation of CMS:

1. Chemical Inventory: List out each chemical used in the factory, whether it is directly used in the making of the final product or as a miscellaneous chemical, such as ETP, laboratory, utility or sanitary chemicals.
2. Undertake Risk Assessment of the chemicals listed in the inventory by identifying the hazards, determining the exposure and calculating the risk to human health and the environment.
3. Plan out and implement risk control measures or precautions required for storage, handling and containment of the identified hazardous chemicals.
4. Communication: The potential hazards must be communicated to all the personnel from store to finishing.
5. Use of Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) and safe use procedures for workers handling chemicals in the facility.
6. Emergency Response Planning for chemical spillages and accidents.
7. Incorporate checkpoints for screening of chemicals for compliance and mandatory documentation in the purchase process.
8. Develop a waste disposal and management system, including classification and segregation of hazardous waste.

Follow Up:

Chemical Management Systems need to be monitored at frequent intervals by conducting chemical audits. The facility can also follow programs such as Higg Index by Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), ZDHC Foundation (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals) or equivalent.  The findings should be discussed during the review meetings to study the effectiveness of the implementation of CMS, identify improvement areas and actions.

SGS – Supporting your Zero Discharge Goal

SGS offers a comprehensive range of services to help manufacturers and their suppliers to create a safer environment, as well as assisting the leather and footwear supply chain toward the zero-discharge goal, by providing robust and holistic solutions for chemical and environmental management across the supply chain.

Our unique Trio Approach offers three strategic areas of support and training:

1. Training & Knowledge Management
2. Chemical Risk Assessment
3. Best Practice & System Implementation

These advanced solutions and trainings help the industry to build a good understanding of the concepts and achieve successful implementation of CMS to meet the regulatory requirements such as REACH, CPSIA etc.

The author can be reached at: vijayakumar.ka@sgs.com

]]> https://shoesandaccessories.in/ezok-launches-first-line-of-mens-footwear-in-offline-space-with-150-skus/ Sat, 20 Aug 2022 14:31:25 +0000 https://shoesandaccessories.in/?p=8128 Amar Shoes & Leather Wears, a leading manufacturer of exclusive leather shoes announced the launch of their finest assortment of exquisite leather Men’s Footwear in India.

New Delhi: With roots in time-honoured and deep-seated footwear making expertise, Amar Shoes inexhaustible portfolio of distinctive leather products are of high repute globally.

“We recognize that there is a growing demand in the men’s market for stylish, sustainable footwear. In fact, EZOK’s journey started after a few years ago. After gaining manufacturing expertise and being in the business for over 30 years, we thought of taking a chance in retail with our own brand – a complete design-to-dispatch brand that will awaken all the senses of people worldwide, turning heads with each design. We see huge potential for its growth — on a comparable trajectory to our export business. Just as we’ve pushed for a more sustainable future in export, we’re proud to continue paving the way for sustainable innovation in our new venture.” Arvind Bajaj, Founder EZOK Shoes

Taking the expertise in leather shoes, EZOK extends the stylishness to its exquisite line of men’s shoes.” Commenting on the launch of EZOK Shoes, Arvind Bajaj said, “The core of the brand lies primitively in offering premium quality at economically pricing. The Indian consumer has a typical choice but craves a durable and quality product. It is probably the right time to be in India and be a part of the India growth story. We are responsible manufacturer therefore we are sourcing materials locally from India however they adhere to REACH standards (an EU compliance) and internationally compliant norms.”

He added , “ The retail market has a strong  potential, however, It’s very essential to associate with the right people, who value our quality and design. So, we took our time and only entered the market once we found the right partners. We launched our brand online earlier this year and have seen an excellent response and we are very confident that the collection will also be well received and appreciated by offline players. The brand is being produced at our own manufacturing units in Agra & Noida.”

EZOK products are made with the same degree for detail as produced for leading global brands, using the finest materials and carries the unique craftsmanship of our manufacturing. The 150+ models offer everything that are high on style and that a quality focused individual would expect to add to their wardrobe. The collection is produced from the same high quality, premium leather and enhanced with the same seaming techniques that a premium product is made with.The collection has been designed with a stylish language that has been carefully planned down to the smallest detail. The grand evening reception hosted 100 plus dealers and 30 plus influencers from across India. Today, EZOK presents itself as a leading manufacturer of men’s shoes. EZOK Shoes will be available in India at MBO’s, retail Chains and leading stores across India along with online platforms like Nyaka, Flipkart, Amazon, Ajio and Myntra etc. The collection encompasses Sneakers, Boots, moccasins, comfort, casuals, and dress shoes. The collection will be priced at a range starting at Rs 2,400 to Rs 3,999.

Spread across two levels, the store plays to Nike’s three guiding principles: of bringing access to sport, adding value to the local community and creating a destination that brings members and consumers closer to sport, and closer to one another. To inspire consumers make sport a daily habit and also connect them closer to the city, Nike Mumbai has launched Nike By You – a first-of-its kind collection of customised tees and shoes dedicated to, and capturing the life and energy of Mumbai and its people.

Designed by two local artists from Boomranng Studios and Studio Kohl, the bespoke artworks depict Mumbai’s packed housing colonies, its streets and the sweat, the hustle, its self-assurance, passion and resilience, and everything else that reflects the city’s indomitable spirit. With bright colour palettes reflecting the glitz of the Bollywood industry, spectacular sunsets along its iconic beaches, local trains that chug night and day, its landscape dotted with old and new architecture, the people on their industrious march, and even the music that can soften its toughened hearts, the action-oriented designs by Boomranng Studios offer a glimpse into the lives of a Mumbaikar.

Studio Kohl has focused its designs to bring more women to sport, encourage female friendship and teamwork as well as building gender parity. From yoga inspired to sarees on skateboards, to hip hopping and boom boxing to Mumbai Rap, the colour palettes, scripts and gestures celebrate the women of Mumbai playing sport, enjoying sport or achieving in sport. Shoppers can now personalise tees using one of the iconic designs printed and heat-pressed at the store. Nike By You customisation is also extended to footwear embellishment, wherein consumers can pick and choose from an array of aglets, dubraes and laces in eye-popping colours as well as have laser-engrave dubraes to personalise their footwear.

The 7,300 sq. ft. concept store contains the latest and most extensive range of Nike merchandise in the region and a comprehensive offering of running, training, lifestyle, basketball and Jordan Brand products for men, women and kids. With nearly 40 per cent of floor space allocated to women and kids and 50 per cent store staff as women, female shoppers can avail of services like bra fitting and shop from a range of footwear and apparel collection for dance, fitness, running and yoga and also find their favourite Nike products for their family. As consumers become more discerning about improving their performance, treadmill trials are also offered at the store to test shoes prior to purchase.

As the city opens up, Nike By You serves as a way to connect consumers with the verve of the city that is Mumbai in all its regalia, by giving members a chance to wear the nostalgia of its past and its visions of the future. The customised tees serve a reminder that even adapting to the metamorphosis is its glamorous act of rebellion; and that Mumbai is truly centuries ahead.

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